Sunshine Brewing is as Kiwi as it Gets

Brewing since 1989, Sunshine Brewing in Gisborne is New Zealand’s oldest independent craft brewery, and every year they celebrate with a big luncheon of matching one-off brews. After a two-year hiatus due to Covid, I was invited to this year’s 33rd anniversary luncheon to learn all about this local legend. 

In true Kiwi fashion, the idea for Sunshine Brewing was conceived by two mates out for a surf when, in their presumably short time of self-reflection, they were struck with the inspiration to brew the perfect beer. That beer was Gisborne Gold Lager or ‘Gizzy Gold’ as it’s affectionately known. 

33 years on, after winning several awards, including multiple gold medals at the prestigious Australian International Beer Awards, and earning the admiration of locals and out-of-towners alike, this humble brewery has paved the way for countless other craft breweries around the country.  

Sunshine Brewery and Taproom

Sunshine Brewing has since changed hands from the original owners to Director Martin Jakicevich, and a few friends, who took over the reins in 2013, but the can-do spirit of the brand is still very much alive, perhaps best epitomised by Head Brewer Jesse Foley who came into the job after Martin simply asked him whether he’d like to give it a go.  

I met Jesse in the Sunshine Brewing taproom, which is famous for not only its beers but pizzas, too, which flow out of the kitchen almost as readily as the beer does. I visited outside of business hours, but later in the day, it became a hive of activity, as it regularly does, for thirsty and hungry locals alike. If you’re in Gisborne and you’re wondering where the local watering hole is, this is it.

The taproom is also where I had my first taste of Gisborne’s finest, and even at 10 in the morning it is a light, crisp and refreshing drop. I could easily see how you could knock back a few of these after a day out on the water, no wonder the founders felt so inspired to brew the perfect beer. 

Sunshine Brewing have over 20 taps to choose from 

From the taproom, I stepped into the brewery, and even though Sunshine Brewing is the pinnacle of Kiwiness, Jesse, who is a native of San Diego, and his top-of-the-line American made brewhouse give Sunshine a slight tinge of red, white and blue. The steam-powered American muscle of the brewery can produce 1 million liters of beer every year, which gives them room to grow, and 6,000 liters in only 12 hours.  

There is also some homegrown technology in the form of re-purposed dairy tanks, which now act as Sunshine’s single brew tanks, making it easier to ‘keg off’ the beer as needed so Jesse and his team can easily swap it out for their best sellers.  

With the production of Sunshine's bread-and-butter Gizzy Gold nailed, Jesse is also afforded the opportunity to experiment, coming up with funky new beers every month like the Saison du Brut, a farmhouse ale, as well as a dessert-inspired Tiramisu Stout and a kettle-sour range, often with fruit additives at up to 30% of volume. 

Sunshine Brewing's state-of-the-art equipment

As if there was any further evidence needed of Sunshine’s down-to-earth approach to brewing, I discovered that a lot of experimentation occurs simply because someone happens to have a whole bunch of fruit lying around. And Sunshine is only too happy to take it off their hands; Jesse tells me that they once hand zested and juiced 200kg of mandarins!  

Jesse brewed some of these experimental beers specially for the luncheon, which was catered by renowned Chef Rex Morgan. One of the highlights was the Life’s a Peach beer – as with the other fruity concoctions, this beer was made from a staggering amount of fruit, 250kg of peaches in fact, and was more like juice than beer. It paired perfectly with the Southeast Asian flavours of the Soy Glazed Pork Belly, Hoisin and Oriental Slaw. 

To coincide with the 33rd anniversary, Jesse also brewed the Double Gold (now available online), in honour of the famous Gizzy Gold. As the name implies, this lager has (roughly) twice the alcoholic volume of the classic Gisborne Gold at 6.6%, although Jesse did toy with the idea of going all the way up to 33%. Personally, I’m glad he didn’t. In contrast to the Gisborne Gold, it was malty, smooth and hoppy with a touch of honey and spice to match the saltiness and creamy texture of the Grilled Beef Fillet, Parsnip Puree and Oxtail Jus.  

Guests enjoyed a 5-course menu prepared by Chef Rex Morgan

The thing I really admire about Sunshine Brewing is that while there is obviously a certain standard to be maintained, there is also a free-spiritedness about the brand that reflects not only New Zealand, but Gisborne itself. Like the locals I met down there, Sunshine Brewing embody the work hard, play hard spirit and I think that comes out in the beer. There is an attitude of having fun and making memories because that is ultimately what their beer is intended for.  

The new ownership of Sunshine Brewing has a lot of responsibility on its shoulders in living up to the heritage of the old brand, and I have to say they’re doing a great job, keeping it Gisborne, keeping it gold.  

Try Gisborne Gold for yourself or any other of Sunshine Brewing’s craft beer by shopping online at sunshinebrewing.co.nz  

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