A chat with Ruben Maurice from Bar Martin

Turning Mt Albert neighbours into friends.

It’s not often that you can feel like you know a person, or get their complete ‘vibe’, over the phone, but having never met Bar Martin owner Ruben Maurice before, after chatting for 45 minutes he felt like a friend. I suspect it’s Ruben’s genuine, warm conviviality that is the secret behind Bar Martin’s raging success.

With a long history in hospitality (Ruben started out when he was still at school), Ruben is quick to praise his mentors along the way and cite them as an influence in his achievements. Blair Russell and Mark Wallbank from Rocco days, and ex-MasterChef judge and Baduzzi owner Michael Dearth, who encouraged him to start his own business. Which he did. First there was a café called Ruben, which he ran for two years, then Vulcan Lane Bagel for five years — complete with 5am starts, which he laughs was pretty good for “not a morning person!”. Although daunted to springboard to a neighbourhood wine bar, with the encouragement and hands-on support of architect wife Hannah, the duo opened Bar Martin in November 2020.

The concept was based on what Ruben and Hannah enjoyed when visiting bars in Europe, with an eye on a simple but relaxed style, and not trying to “be too cool”. And it’s precisely that nonchalance that works to brilliant effect, creating a laid-back, Europe-meets-Aotearoa experience that is, in fact, very cool. The large bar is made of reclaimed kauri, while the walls are painted half in a nautical navy blue and half in subtle cream. The inside space features wooden tables, chairs and stools while outside more communal tables are dotted amongst olives in the charming back courtyard. It was imperative to the duo that everyone, aged 20- 90, could drop in and feel at home, to catch up with friends, work, read or simply enjoy a solo drink, in a safe and friendly environment. But Ruben reckons that while they’ve provided the space, it’s the locals that have made the bar what it is. He comments that they’re always open and chatty to each other, whether they know one another or not, and tells me about one lot of neighbours who live opposite each other, but had never really spoken to each other before, who have become firm friends since connecting at Bar Martin.

The menu is small, both out of necessity and design, Ruben reckons he’s worked in boats with bigger galleys than the kitchen!

He says the team need to be super prepped and organised, and each needs to be able to step up and turn out a perfect plate when needed. The small sharing plates on offer work brilliantly because of the exceptional produce used, such as anchovies and sardines from Sabato and Massimo’s creamy burrata. As Ruben says, “simple but quality”, with some of the most popular dishes burrata or anchovies and seaweed butter, with sourdough from Wild Wheat. He credits vegetarian wife Hannah, with some irony, for suggesting the most ordered item on the menu, Coppa and Crisps with Fennel Oil, based on a recipe found in an old New Yorker magazine. And while Hannah doesn’t eat meat, Ruben is gluten-free, consequently they’re well aware and adept at catering to all dietary requirements.

One of the unique aspects to the bar is that much of the drinks menu offering is also available to buy, with off-licence wine for sale on site.The off-licence was almost a secondary thought based on what they had seen trending in bars in Australia, but became an integral part of the business during Covid lockdowns with Ruben driving as far afield as Devonport or South Auckland to make deliveries. He loves that it also provides an opportunity to sell wines that haven’t made it to their carefully curated wine list, noting that customers will often buy and drink different wine at home to when they’re out.

Ruben finishes by telling me that it is impossible to be successful in hospitality without good people, and that quality staff are really hard to find. And that’s where he seems to have hit the jackpot with his team of eight, including Tim Arnold and Sylvie Mangan who he says are his right-hands when putting together the wine list. With their three palates and perspectives combined, he reckons the offering is bang on!

And so, after a good chat and a few laughs, Ruben needs to get off the phone and re-join his team mates at the hockey National Masters Tournament in Whangārei. He says they’ve been playing like rubbish, but I’m not sure that matters when he’s clearly got champion skills elsewhere — and the perfect formula for a neighbourhood bar that has become the hub of a community.

43 Martin Ave, Mount Albert, barmartin.co.nz