Candela, Auckland

As someone who appreciates Spanish culture, I’ve had my eye on K Road’s Candela for quite some time. Over the years, however, I’ve become skeptical of restaurants that claim to be ‘authentic’ or ‘inspired by’ a particular cuisine – by whose determination? And to what degree? What’s fascinating is that Candela was recently awarded full certification by ICEX, a Spanish government agency which recognises restaurants outside of Spain that best present themselves as global ambassadors of Spanish cuisine. A claim which only Candela can make both here and in Australia. Did I know this before dining there? Not at all. Has it changed my opinion of Candela? Absolutely not, because it couldn’t be higher. 

There’s something effortlessly cool about Candela. Like James Dean leaned up against a wall with his hair slicked back and a cigarette hanging out of his mouth, you can’t help but spare a quick glance as you pass by. The atmosphere continues inside with intimate lighting, extending down a cavernous, stylish space. (As a side note, it’s worth mentioning that the seating is incredibly comfortable. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve been to a restaurant and internally screamed because of the seating.) 

Our meal began with the Grilled Flatbread and Sobrassada Butter. My friend, who I took along, and who had previously dined at Candela, set expectations high by claiming he could eat all the flatbread and butter alone. He found new competition for that right as soon as the flatbread landed on our table. The strong aromas of the grill forcefully dragged me down into deep, delicious waters. But it was the butter that held me under. Its luxurious, silky-smooth texture was more like sauce than butter – a curry sauce, at that, as it snuck in some heat. 

The grill worked its magic again with the Lamb Belly Pintxo with Mojo Verde. Like an oncoming tide of flavour, each bite only got stronger, washing ashore with charcoal flavours from the grill, then saturating your taste buds with a rich, savoury taste. And then just like that, it was gone, leaving only a delicate heat in its wake. It was a good thing we had back-up from the Mibrasa 

Grilled Ribeye with Chimichurri Butter. We were now entering serious ‘lick your lips’ territory, the cascade of flavours coating the ribeye leading you down a rabbit hole like Alice into Wonderland, at first peppery then sweet, herby and smoky. Next, the Octopus, Pil Pil, Red Pepper and Butterbean boldly announced itself with a rich, creamy and spicy red pepper sauce, backed by intense umami flavour. 

For me, the real marker of authentic Spanish cuisine comes down to one dish: paella. Candela’s Tiger Prawn Paella with Saffron Aioli is diminutive by traditional standards but big on flavour. I could have eaten just the prawns alone, but the creamy aioli and deeply flavourful rice demanded that you continue digging deeper until you reached the conclusion that this is indeed a paella, and a restaurant, worthy of its ICEX certification. 

There was one final order of business to take care of, and it had nothing to do with authenticity, and everything to do with dish. For the uninitiated, our Basque cheesecakes are among our most popular recipes (find them at dish.co.nz), and as a less- than-objective member of the dish team, I have yet to encounter a better version. But Candela’s is a very close second. The sweet, creamy taste is superb, and its cool, smooth interior contrasts beautifully with the crusty exterior. Who knows, maybe a second piece would have swayed me in Candela’s favour. Maybe. 

ICEX certification or no ICEX certification, Candela is an incredible restaurant offering some of the best Spanish food I have ever eaten. The atmosphere and the food are both worthy of recognition in their own right. And, for what it’s worth, you can now add the dish stamp of approval to its list of credentials.

Menu Recommendations 
Mibrasa Grilled Ribeye with Chimichurri Butter 
Octopus, Pil Pil, Red Pepper and Butterbean 
Basque Cheesecake 

Candela
155 Karangahape Road, Auckland 
0210 261 4299

candelabar.co.nz
@candela_krd