Cassia, Auckland

Cassia’s new location feels elegant, new and exciting, yet familiar with the same heart and spectacular flavours.

Sid Sahrawat’s name is synonymous with fine dining and elevated Indian flavours, and the relocation of his renowned restaurant Cassia, from Fort Lane to SkyCity in Federal Street, has provided an opportunity to continue his quest to review, refine and excel. I chatted to Sid about the relocation and how it came together, with the catalyst being Auckland’s recent unprecedented rainfall levels.

“We realised we needed to move the evening the rain began pouring down the steps, into the restaurant, for the second time in just 10 months. While we were able to quickly adapt and bring Cassia back as a pop-up, we knew we needed to find a new home or face more uncertainty.

“We were lucky to meet David Allott, the GM of hospitality at SkyCity, in February. David showed us through the site which had formerly been occupied by The Grill and from the moment Chand and I walked through the doors, we knew it had the bones we needed to transform it into Cassia’s new home.”

Sid is joined at the helm of his thriving restaurant business by talented co-founder and wife, Chand. Both were thrilled that they were able to take their long-standing staff with them for the move.

“Our team is like family to us, and it was really important for us to remain together. We lost a lot of our routine with the floodings, and while the pop-ups kept the team motivated, we missed having one main place to connect.”

Not only does Chand look after much of the operational side of the business, it turns out she also has a secret talent for interior design – so who better to orchestrate the refurbishment of the SkyCity location?

“It feels like a whirlwind! We first met with SkyCity in late February, and after a short negotiation period decided to join the SkyCity precinct in early March. Cassia opened on May 12 so the refurbishment itself was a record-breaking six weeks from start to finish.” Chand was a bit nervous being tasked with the design as she had just recently done the fitout for sister restaurant Kol and knew how big a task it was, but SkyCity reassured her. “They equipped us with an excellent project manager and great contractors. It helped that we didn’t need to make too many changes to the existing space, and we brought some familiar elements from our Fort Lane location with us.”

When asked about the dining experience, Sid felt confident that both established customers and new ones would enjoy the difference and become accustomed to the new restaurant configuration.

“The obvious difference is the space. Cassia on Fort Lane had an underground, industrial vibe; Cassia at SkyCity is more plush and feels more elegant. “We wanted Cassia to feel cosy and familiar, yet modern and refined. Chand has pulled elements from the old Cassia into the design so that guests find familiarity.”

Sid has weathered many challenges throughout his hospitality career, and through that has learned lessons and gained insights he is happy to share: “Just when you have everything going great and feel like you have figured it out, the unexpected comes your way and you have to respond in the best way possible with no blueprint – just your instincts. Also, build a network of support people who will be there for you both personally and professionally.”

“I am grateful to my amazing wife Chand who has been my partner and biggest cheerleader. Together we have battled through the pandemic and two horrible weather events, and I’m so proud that we have come through the other end. I am also grateful for our hospo community who are there for each other in hard times.”

Having had the opportunity to dine at Cassia in its original location, it was with great enthusiasm we booked in for dinner on a recent chilly evening. On arrival, although the surrounds looked a little more formal than in Fort Lane, the modern, buzzy music immediately made it feel more relaxing.

The emerald-turquoise banquette seating has a glowing, ‘touch me’ warmth and at 6pm there were already several packed tables and laughter in the air. We started with my standard, a Cassia Negroni – this one appropriately featuring cassia, a variety of cinnamon, and a carrot garnish. PD went for a rum-forward Amore Speziato. Both pleased with our choices, we quickly made our way through a selection of nibbles.

We couldn’t go past the Pani Puri, with potato, chickpea and mint and a very healthy dose of spiced Pani Puri water – these are definitely one-bite wonders! Next, the delectable Goat Cheese and Corn Fritter with ghost chilli, and – my favourite – the Prawn and Crab Cones. With a lightly crunchy spring roll-like exterior, the filling combines crab and prawn with coconut milk and flavour-bursting finger lime, topped with salmon roe. The Tandoori Chicken ‘taco’, with sausage-shaped cylindrical chicken, has a sneaky subtle heat and a crisp slaw on a soft taco.

Eschewing any more of the smaller dishes, we then headed straight to the sharing part of the menu with Mushroom, Green Chilli and Truffle. Sid’s menu reads deceptively simply – this surprising combination, with a melding of truffle mushrooms and coconut milk, black garlic and chilli, makes you stop and assess what is happening on your palate with a pleasing recalibration. Vindaloos are often thought to be fiercely hot and not a choice for the spice-shy. We found the Beef Short-rib Vindaloo the opposite – with its rich tomato sauce, the flavours were complex but certainly not over-bearingly hot.

Just when I thought I couldn’t manage another bite, a morsel of a newly developed dessert appeared – deliciously nubbly carrot cake with a contrasting smooth cardamom cream. An absolute delight. And the final bite was of Sid’s new signature dessert. Humbly listed as Chocolate, Coffee Miso on the menu, it is in fact an artfully-constructed chocolate sphere shell which cracks to reveal honeycomb miso, raspberry sorbet, and hazelnut sponge on a base of coffee mousse.

Cassia may have changed its site, but the heart is very much still on show in the new home.

Menu recommends

• Pani Puri with potato, chickpea, mint and spiced Pani Puri water
• Goat Cheese and Corn Fritter
• Prawn and Crab Cones
• Tandoori Chicken Taco
• Mushroom, Green Chilli and Truffle
• Beef Short-rib Vindaloo
• Chocolate, Coffee Miso

Cassia
90 Federal Street, Auckland
www.skycityauckland.co.nz/restaurants/cassia