From Peru to Ponsonby, INCA’s Menu Is Inspired

The dish team sample Nic Watt’s INCA menu at the exciting new Ponsonby Central location.

Thanks to my travels to Peru, which took me high into the mountains above Machu Picchu, and my much-less arduous journey to INCA atop Westfield Newmarket, I am already quite well-versed in the delights of Nikkei cuisine and Nic Watt’s interpretation of it. So, I was very excited to have yet another taste of INCA’s menu at their swanky new Ponsonby location.

Located down the Richmond Road half of Ponsonby Central, within the new expansion, INCA beckons you inside with its festive vibe reminiscent of my time spent in South America. Natural daylight floods the restaurant through large windows, complementing the warm textures and colourful lanterns throughout.

Like many festive gatherings I’ve attended in the past, we were greeted by a generous serving of chips and dip, albeit with a much more polished presentation and considerably more thought given to the ingredients. The Guacamole INCA Style is made in-house with jalapeño, coriander and their ‘INCA spice’ and served with a bowl of corn chips. At first, the hefty concrete bowl that the guacamole was presented in raised a few eyebrows among my fellow diners and I, concerned about whether we needed that much guacamole. Those doubts were quickly put to rest. Lovely and fresh with a delicate creamy texture and a punch of spice, we scooped up the guacamole with absolute precision, trying our very best to maximise every millimetre of space that the corn chips afforded us.

Also vying for our attention was the Rock Melon with Ichimi Kimchi served over ice, which provided a refreshing palate reset. Its sweet and zesty fragrance zinged the tongue, leaving a sweet honey taste that beautifully followed up the lingering spice of the guacamole and chips.

The true test of any Peruvian-inspired menu is its Ceviche, and we were treated to INCA’s Classico with fresh market fish, leche de tigre and sweet potato crisps. I’m happy to say that I was not disappointed, and in fact was delighted by the play between the delicate crunch of the sweet potato crisps and the firm but tender fish. The dressing snuck in a welcome touch of heat, which was complemented by fresh herbs and a tease of citrus. Carrying on the seafood theme was the Gunpowder Roll Sushi made up of crisp soft-shell crab. Almost like a miniature meal in its own right, the sushi was beautifully presented, sprouting with fresh slices of cucumber, carrot and crab. Like a neatly wrapped gift, it presents you with the impossible task of finding a way to eat it without destroying it. A challenge I was more than happy to accept.

From the BBQ menu, we were treated to the Ember Roasted Black Cod with anticucho miso, mild peppers and ginger blossoms. In contrast to the citrus flavours of the ceviche, the smokiness of the cod shone through, mixing beautifully with the cascading flavours of the miso – at first sweet, then creamy and salty like Marmite butter. And just when you think it’s over, the sweet juices of the peppers and ginger take your tastebuds in a completely different direction while maintaining harmony with the rest of the dish. The unanimous favourite dish of the day, however, was the Clay Baked Sweet Potato. It’s listed as a side on the menu, but it stole the show in more ways than one. It arrives with a little bit of fanfare – the clay it's encased in needs to be smashed open in order to reveal the golden delight that lies within. Upon the sweet potato’s dramatic reveal, it’s mixed with a chilli and miso butter that produces an intensely sweet smell of butterscotch caramel that simply cannot be resisted. The sweet potato was luxuriously soft and creamy like butter and yet sweet and delicate like a dessert with some lemony zest. Were it not for the courtesy of table manners, I may have snatched the entire dish for myself.

What awaited us for dessert, however, was equally as enticing: The Sigh of a Lima Lady with dulce de leche custard, toasted meringue, caramelised apple and roasted white chocolate. The highlight for me, as it often is, was the rich and velvety smooth dulce de leche. The custard lingers on the palate, inviting you back for more, but there are so many interesting textures for you to explore. From the tartness of the apples to the crispness of the roasted chocolate and the crumble of the almond sponge, it’s as well-rounded an experience you can hope for to end your visit.

I’ve been to Peru, and now I’ve been to INCA twice, and I can honestly say that Nic Watt has done an excellent job in honouring Nikkei cuisine. There are few restaurants offering this kind of food in New Zealand, and I can’t think of a better place than Ponsonby Central to introduce the food-loving public to this exciting cuisine.

Might I also add that the new Silky Otter cinemas are opening next door soon. Sounds like an ideal date night to me!

Located at 9 Richmond Road.

For more information, visit incarestaurant.co.nz/ponsonby