Cafès, Restaurants and Bars in Dunedin

Head south to Dunedin and prepare to be delighted! Take a weekend, or an extended break, to explore a rapidly evolving food and drink scene, spearheaded by high-calibre operators who are continuing to put their faith in new and exciting projects.

There’s a lot going on here. It has been more than a decade since I walked the streets of Dunedin as a ‘scarfie’. I paid very little attention (or budget) to what was already a hospitality scene full of top-notch establishments and hidden gems. To my detriment, I had never made it back.

This February, Chrisanne and I were lucky to be placed in the capable hands of James Hall from Enterprise Dunedin. We ran through the list of legacy venues still thriving, and a robust roster of recently launched cafés, bars and eateries. It became a game of timing Tetris as we discussed how we could possibly fit everything into our three-day stay... because there really is a lot going on here.

We explored a small but mighty hospitality community that is punching far above its weight. Coffee culture, music, and the city’s creatives are celebrated in the street art and shopfronts, and quality commercial spaces don’t stay vacant for long. Dunedin has entered an era of peaceful coexistence with its students, who are gravitating more towards high-quality food and drink. The central city and its attractions are very walkable — though we do recommend taking at least one day to see the region and take in Dunedin’s stunning surroundings.

Follow along with us from coffee to breakfast, lunch, drinks and dinner as we explore some of the city’s hospo highlights.

Vanguard Specialty Coffee Co
Vanguard Café – 329 Princes St
The Roastery – 49 Vogel St

Far from the new kid on the block, Vanguard’s industrial interiors and well-considered spaces have locals and visitors feeling just as at home for a group brunch as for a quiet coffee moment before work.

Their Princes Street café has been bustling since 2015, and in 2022 Vanguard moved their roastery around the corner to meet growing demand; their team is turning out 300kg of beans each week to supply their in-house customers, online orders and a few select cafés and retailers around New Zealand.

Vanguard has always focused on producing specialty brews without compromising on quality or ethics. Founder Jason Moore is a strong advocate for transparency and care across every point of the supply chain, and he works closely with smallhold farmers across the world’s best coffee regions, who take as much pride in their work as the Vanguard team does here. This is reflected in the coffee, which, of course, is delicious.

Several new spots have opened up around their precinct, but Jason notes that Vanguard hasn’t lost any trade. The market is growing alongside what’s on offer, and there seems to still be plenty of space for everyone. vanguardcoffee.co.nz

Breads & More
405 Princes St

After four years of delighting punters at Otago Farmers Market (see page 113) with laminated sourdough croissants, sourdough breads, pizza bases and hand-crafted sweet pastries served from a Kurtosh food truck, Israeli-born Tomer Weisshof took the leap and opened his own shopfront on Princes Street in 2024. With more than 20 years of European training in ‘haute cuisine’, and influenced by Jewish, French, Arabic and Mediterranean baking traditions, Tomer has painstakingly created a unique, world-class range of artisan baked goods. The process of leavening and proofing begins days before Tomer’s products hit the shelves; he works around the clock to craft quality breads and pastries. Early arrival at his store or the market is essential if you want to sample the full range. We’re still thinking about his outstanding Canelés, perfectly spiced Swedish Buns, and the indulgent Whittaker’s Chocolate Babka. @breads_andmore

Big Lizard
22 Vogel St

The former owner-operators of popular Moray Place café Side On were met with huge excitement from locals when they announced their new project, Big Lizard, which opened in October 2024. Step through the fluoro-green entranceway into Renee Hope, Alan Baxter and Charlotte Harraway’s deli-style takeaway, which offers top-notch coffee and ready-made soft focaccia sandwiches, along with a full cabinet of their famous Side On-style pastries.

From 10am, you will find a larger range of sandwiches on offer, from classic combos to made-to-order flavour adventures. We’re still thinking about their delicious Potato, Rosemary & Taleggio Focaccia, but we would love to go back for the sandwich with Cauli Pakora, Coyo Raita, Cucumber and Masala Crisps, or the Chicken Schnitty Torta with Salsa Roja, Lime Onions and Mozzarella. biglizard.co.nz

Augustines of Portobello Farmstore & Kitchen
33 Hereweka St, Portobello

The views over the Otago Peninsula as you head out to Portobello and popular walking and biking destination, Hereweka Harbour Cone, are already well worth the drive; but, nestled amongst native bush and an abundance of fruit trees, Augustines of Portobello is a special destination of its own.

Augustines of Central is already a beloved (and award-winning) name amongst Kiwi foodies. After years working between rented spaces, preserving the best of Central Otago’s produce, owners Gus Hayden and Jana Reulecke now have a permanent base for the Augustines brand on Gus’s parents’ Fat Weka Farm. Portobello and the wider community welcomed the Farmstore & Kitchen in November 2024.

Open Friday to Sunday, the Kitchen focuses on food provenance and showcasing their delicious range of preserves and relishes, offering five to six seasonal dishes for breakfast, brunch, and lunch, along with fresh sandwiches, cakes and pastries ready to enjoy in an idyllic, peaceful setting. Standout dishes on our visit were the Eggs & Sirloin Ham with Piccalilli Relish, Quince Glace and Watercress; the Waffles with Preserved Rhubarb, Fresh Strawberries and Jam; and House-made Granola with Fresh Apricots, Blueberries, Yoghurt and Apricot Sauce.

If you’re coming from central Dunedin, it’s recommended you book a table for weekends (Fridays are ‘Locals Days’ with walk-ins welcome), as the space seats about 20 people at a time. However, taking a walk up Hereweka, then stopping by for a Rhubarb & Strawberry Danish and coffee to takeaway, would also be a lovely way to spend a day on the Peninsula. augustinesofcentral.com

Commons Eatery
29 The Octagon

Looking for a new project after the successful transformation of longtime Dunedin gem, The Swan Café & Bar, Dane Wall took the opportunity to take over the old Nova café- restaurant space; a site with legacy, ready for a new chapter. Dane aimed to create a ‘third space’ for customers, where they could feel at home at any time of day — coffee, brunch, lunch, that liminal 2-3pm period, which is sometimes for coffee and sometimes for beer, all the way through to a laid-back dinner. Two months in, the space already feels like customers have been at home here for years.

It’s a tall order to cater to almost every food and drink moment of the day, but if the outstanding all-day menu, great coffee and drinks list, and smiling faces throughout the space are anything to go by, Dane has risen to the occasion beautifully. In the long-term, he plans to expand his Dunedin portfolio further, but in the meantime, he is in full swing bringing the Commons vision to life as the Octagon’s go-to AM-PM locale.

Our suggestions for the perfect shared lunch? Start with the Classic Beef Steak Tartare, whether you usually gravitate towards tartare or not — I’m now a convert! You also don’t want to miss the White Fish Ceviche, the incredibly moreish Heritage Tomatoes and Whipped Feta, or the Smashed Garden Greens and Avocado with Mint, Ricotta and Sourdough. @commons_eatery

Esplanade
2 Esplanade, Saint Clair

We were lucky to arrive at Saint Clair beach at the perfect time; some angry morning clouds had moved on, and the walk along the water was a chance to take in just how spectacular this golden sand beach, just 15 minutes from the heart of Dunedin, can be.

Katrina Toovey has been a steady presence on Dunedin’s hospitality scene for more 30 years. Her first venture, Abalone, opened its doors 25 years ago, and as the city has evolved, Katrina has built and run deeply personal establishments that have reflected what she most wanted to experience as a customer in each phase of her life; from the upbeat energy of her first ventures, Abalone and Bath St, to the famous Nova restaurant in the 90s, and onto neighbourhood bistro No.7 Balmac. At Esplanade, the space is welcoming, fun and family-friendly, and the Italian offerings will please even the most discerning of foodies and wine drinkers.

Katrina prioritises solid relationships with her suppliers and local producers, and the care shows in each dish. Sourced nearby, the Clams with Garlic and White Wine are a must-order, as are the Fried Stuffed Zucchini Flowers with Ricotta, Lemon and Basil. Katrina’s go-to comfort food is the Ravioli with Sage Butter, and the Tagliatelle with Pork Sausage, Garlic and Pomodoro Giallo was a hit for our whole table. We’d also be remiss not to recommend any and all of their pizzas! esplanade.co

Steamer Basin Brewery & Taproom
No Name Alley

“We just wanted to make beer that celebrates this part of the world,” Steamer Basin co-owner Paul Kelly says as he pours a glass of Honey Pils — one of their most popular brews. Paul and co-owner and partner Karen Gazzard returned to Dunedin after more than 20 years overseas and started their neighbourhood brewing journey with a 50L brew kit, selling fresh beers at Otago Farmers Market. Inspired by the myriad of local ingredients available, they focused on crafting unique, seasonal beers, with everything sourced as close to home as possible.

Now, their 1500L brewery and taproom is tucked away amongst the street art on No Name Alley; locals and visitors can stop by for a fresh brew (or to fill up their flagons to take home) and a Roman pan pizza.

You will only find Steamer Basin beers in Otago; Paul and Karen love finding foods and beverages unique to a place, and they want their beer to be a part of the Otago experience here, while supporting their local producers and environment. What’s on tap depends on what’s growing, but we celebrated the region with the Cherry Grisette, a fruity saison aged on Cromwell cherries; Greengage Sour, a punchy sour made with fruit from their backyard; and the Honey Pils, a pilsner flavoured with Central Otago thyme honey. steamerbasin.co.nz

No.8 Distillery
90 Bond St

Fourth-generation French distiller Julien Delavoie is a force to be reckoned with. He’s just a few weeks away from opening his new venue as a full-service bar, and is already running educational spirits workshops each day, crafting more than 25 different products (and counting), foraging locally for ingredients and running his stall at Otago Farmers Market every Saturday. It’s hard to believe he found the time to talk us through his journey and his award-winning range.

Bringing generations of distilling knowledge to a country that is relatively new to it has been exciting, but not without its challenges. New Zealand has limited routes for formal education in distilling, so companies here often train their staff from scratch. However, Julien loves the freedom to forage for native and locally grown plants to add to traditional recipes — his 1926 family recipe for absinthe is brought to life with fresh wormwood straight from the Otago Peninsula, while kawakawa, horopito, gorse and elderflower are used in his other creations. He sources leftover fruits from the market to craft his fruit liqueurs and flavourful pineapple rum. Julien’s love of distilling and innovation, combined with his energy and charisma will no doubt see him continue to delight Dunedin and beyond, and his bar will definitely be worth a visit, to both imbibe and learn. no8distillery.com

Graze & Glow
139 Stuart St

Andre Shi is full of energy, ideas and passion for hospitality. He has been building an impressive (and varied) portfolio at full speed over the past few years: Vault 21, Catacombs Nightclub, Prohibition Smokehouse and Déjà Vu Eats. His latest venture, Graze & Glow, is a new concept for Dunedin and, since opening last June, has been a hit with locals and students alike.

This high-energy eatery and cocktail bar offers an ever-changing, massive menu of 20-plus share plates, taking inspiration from all great international cuisines. As you scroll through the menu, you’ll be pleased to see that each dish (and cocktail on tap) is just $9.

Andre and his team have created a space that feels just as accessible to students as it does to locals and visitors of all demographics, any day of the week. Make sure you come with an empty stomach, because you will absolutely want to try more of the menu than you bargained for. We’re still thinking about their moreish mushroom skewers, crispy pork belly, lollipop chicken, and arancini balls. The showstopper of the evening was a recent addition to their menu: a perfectly spiced panna cotta.

Come for the novelty, stay (and return) for the flavour and atmosphere. @graze_n_glow

No.7 Balmac
7 Balmacewen Rd, Māori Hill

Any foodie tour of Dunedin would be incomplete without a trip up the hill to Katrina Toovey’s No.7 Balmac, a favourite amongst locals and visitors alike for 16 years. No.7 is open for bistro-style dining from brunch through to dinner, and has always focused on high-quality, locally sourced ingredients; much of the menu comes straight from their own garden. The sweets and baked goods available throughout the day are all made in house, and, with an impressive wine list, delicious cocktails and premium local beers on tap, you’ll be set for a lovely evening before the starters even arrive.

The menu evolves with the seasons, but if you’re dining in February or March, we recommend sipping on the Pear Manhattan or the Sage Spritz, while enjoying the Prosciutto- wrapped Baked Mt Domett Double Cream Brie with Poached Peach, Salted Walnut, Hot Honey and House-baked Bread. Up next, indulge in the slow-cooked Confit Duck Leg with Roasted Eggplant, Walnut Tarator, Coriander, Grapes and Stone Fruit, alongside the perfectly presented daily market fish. Leave room for dessert, too, No.7’s Bombe Alaska is famous for good reason. no7balmac.co.nz

Links Quality Meats
403 Princes St

Your neighbourhood artisanal butchery done right; Links Quality Meats champions local farmers and produces quality cuts of meat to an exceptional standard. Their wall is covered in awards after just a few years in business, and their team love being a part of their community of local producers and hospitality operators. Stop by to pick up one of their marinated free-range chickens or their award-winning sausages to enjoy a standout at-home meal.facebook.com/linksqualitymeats

Otago Farmers Market
36 Anzac Ave

The Farmers Market is described as ‘part of the fabric of Dunedin’, and it truly is something special. Many of the operators we met during our trip had origins at or strong links to this Saturday market. It’s a collective of friendly vendors, offering high-quality produce from around the region while personally connecting with each of their customers. Organised by a group of dedicated, passionate volunteers, it’s as much a social event and a chance to celebrate community as it is a weekly buying trip for many locals. This is a must for your Dunedin itinerary! otagofarmersmarket.org.nz

Fable Hotel Dunedin
310 Princes St

After an immaculate, award-winning renovation of the Wains Building, Fable offers 50-plus luxurious rooms and suites. The sophisticated décor pays homage to the city’s Scottish heritage, and all details have been considered with comfort and style in mind.

Downstairs, you’ll find their Press Club, a bespoke bar and restaurant themed as a nod to the editors and publishers who made the Wains Building their local haunt in the 1870s. A range of premium dishes showcasing locally sourced, organic produce are on offer, and the room service from their kitchen is just as impressive.

For the perfect base to come back to at the end of a big day walking the city, we can’t recommend Fable enough. fablehotelsandresorts.com/hotels/fable-dunedin

Soon to come: Sorella Gelato
Sorella 5/246 Forbury Rd, Saint Clair

After running Esplanade for 12 years, Katrina and her team are now on the home straight for two openings at Saint Clair. We were thrilled to have a sneak peek at the sophisticated space soon to become Sorella Gelato. This artisanal gelateria is set to become a game changer for the city and set a benchmark for gelato in New Zealand as a whole. ‘Gelato maestro’ Marco Adinolfi, who has joined Katrina’s team all the way from Italy, has crafted a selection of masterpieces. The dairy-free flavours
are somehow delightfully creamy, and as a personal mega-fan of all tiramisu gelato, Marco’s creation truly did blow me away. Soon, strolling down Saint Clair beach with a Sorella gem in hand will become a must-do for all Dunedin locals and visitors. @sorellagelato

Soon to come: Piccolo Wine Bar
6/246 Forbury Rd, Saint Clair

Not far behind Sorella will be the launch of Katrina’s next project, neighbourhood wine bar Piccolo. Dunedin is ready for a wine bar to be added to the hospo landscape, and if the gorgeous interiors and curated wine selection in progress are anything to go by, Piccolo is set to exceed expectations. Katrina isn’t in a rush to open, as she believes in taking the time to get things right. When it does open, it’s sure to be a hit.

There is a love for all things local here; the produce, the people, the creativity. The hospitality community supports each other and makes a concerted effort to showcase their local suppliers and growers, and collaborate with other small communities around New Zealand and the world. Dunedin’s people support the industry with curiosity that rapidly becomes loyal patronage.

This all feels very intentional, and it’s working. The market is growing, and thriving, even in an overall tougher operating environment. There is a commitment to quality, and to doing things right from the moment the doors open each day. It’s a joy to see, and a joy to experience.

No matter whether you’ve been to Dunedin before or not, we absolutely recommend making the trip this year. There are even more openings slated for May, August and later in 2025. Wander around to discover something new, take a drive, and most importantly, dine and drink. You will be welcomed everywhere with open arms.

Learn more: dunedinnz.com/see-and-do