Southern Odyssey

I can think of no better region to visit during the depths of a New Zealand winter – join me as I roam from stylish Queenstown and Arrowtown to stunning Wanaka.

Eichardts Accommodation/Bar/Restaurant
https://eichardts.com/

Eichardt’s is iconic for a reason. In prime position overlooking Lake Wakatipu, the hotel oozes international sophistication and provides services to match. With a distinctive boutique vibe and all the amenities you could wish for – from balcony to welcoming fire, deep bath and stylish faux fur throws – the suites are luxurious and well-appointed.

On my visit, having unpacked a few things in the spacious walk-in dressing room, I had the chance to head to the super popular Eichardt’s Bar for a couple of restorative cocktails and bites with dish Food Editor Claire Aldous. The pretty drinks were quickly delivered – a Sangroni, made with house gin, Campari, fresh lemon juice and a quenelle of blood orange sorbet, and for me a Last Scotsman, featuring fig-infused single malt, Drambuie and house-blend bitters. Warm and toasty by the fire, drinks in hand, was the perfect place to sample a few of the small plates on offer. With a spectacular location, spacious accommodation and chic amenities, Eichardt’s is a special place indeed.

Madame Woo
https://www.madamwoo.co.nz/

Casual, quick and super tasty food loaded with punchy flavours – Madame Woo delivers this magic combination in style. With plenty of bite-sized plates on offer, it’s great for four diners or more – or, like us on this occasion, two ravenous souls! Hawker Rolls are a perennial favourite featuring Pulled Sticky Pork, Percik Chicken, Chickpea Masala or Roast Duck and Hoisin. We couldn’t go past the Five-spice Fried Chicken and Prawn Dumplings with a cheeky Char Kway Teow on the side (fried noodles with prawns and Chinese sausage) but didn’t quite have room for the super popular Beef Rendang.

Lake Hawea Station - Accomodation
https://lakehaweastation.com/
https://www.morsel.co.nz/

I don’t think I’ve ever been greeted quite so enthusiastically by anyone as I was by the effervescent Jussie Troy, co-owner of Lake Hāwea Station with husband Geoff Ross. As she bounded up to me with a beaming smile and a warm hug, I know I was going to have a great time visiting their substantial neck of the woods. And I did – their company was warm and intelligent, and our discussions were made even better with a selection of dishes created by Elliot Thomas of high-end local catering company, Morsel. The menu was prepared using carbon clear LHS merino Lamb and foraged goods from their regenerative agriculture pastures. A favourite was the carbon-clear Lamb Tartare with Regen Chicory and Buckwheat…although it’s true no-one could go past the carbon clear Lamb and Porcini Sausage Roll with Apple Ketchup either. Not surprisingly, the emphasis was on showcasing produce from their, New Zealand’s first, Toitū carbon zero-certified farm, achieved after a great deal of work in protecting native trees, stock number management and an overarching plan to liberate the environment. And they intend to go from reaching carbon neutral to being carbon positive times ten! 

Muttonbird
https://muttonbird.co.nz/

Tucked down an alleyway, upstairs, you’ll find this deceptively casual eatery – deceptive in that the plates making their way from the kitchen into the casual dining area are exploding with finessed flavours. When we stopped by it was to sample the clean yet punchy Market Fish Crudo with persimmon and ginger, followed by their famous Blooming Onion with Szechuan salt, vinegar and aioli. I couldn’t get enough of the Royal Burn Lamb Neck with fenugreek, clove and luscious uber-garlicky toum. Chefs George Proudfoot and Jonty Jackson met in Melbourne in 2013, and having become mates, Jonty headed to work in Europe and George to Sydney – covid and the desire for a lifestyle change drew both to Wanaka and Muttonbird was born, and having successfully established their business during a low-tourist pandemic period, I can imagine great success for them ahead.