Best Places to Explore on Waiheke Island

From beaches to vineyards, dish Editor Sarah Tuck seeks out some of the best places to explore, wine and dine on the island.

Just 40 minutes from Auckland via ferry, Waiheke (or ‘the Rock’, or ‘the Heke’, as it is known by locals), sits like the jewel in the crown of the Hauraki Gulf. With a sub-tropical climate perfect for growing olives and grapes, over 90km of pristine beaches, and some of the best food and drinks offerings in New Zealand, it is no wonder that the island is a magnet for both domestic
and international visitors.

According to Google, the list of celebrities that have visited Waiheke is pretty darned impressive – including Taylor Swift, Eva Longoria, Lady Gaga, Madonna, Cindy Crawford, Bill Gates, Beyoncé and Justin Timberlake. So what is it that draws so many to the island, and entices ‘mainlanders’ to make it their home?

Part of the appeal is its proximity to Auckland. It really couldn’t be easier to get to the island via ferry from either downtown Auckland or Half Moon Bay, and if you’re going the celeb route via helicopter, you can be touching down in just 12 minutes. On arrival you can choose from one of the many beaches, cafés, restaurants or vineyards to start your island exploration. There are too many locations for us to round up every single one, so we’ve compiled a list of some of our favourites – and if it’s sunshine and sea you’re chasing, the closest beach is just a stone’s throw away.

BEACHES

Oneroa Beach
If you’re not keen for a swim where the passenger ferry arrives at Matiatia, Oneroa is a great option for your first dip. Handy to the Oneroa shops, this beach provides your classic Kiwi experience complete with Pōhutukawa and kayaks to rent.

Little Oneroa Beach
The next beach along is smaller and very kid-friendly with a playground and dairy close to hand for ice creams and cold drinks.

Palm Beach
With beautiful white sand, Palm Beach is a drive away but worth the effort. A regularly visited beach for locals, this very pretty spot also features a playground and picnic area, as well as a popular local restaurant, Arcadia.

Enclosure Bay
As the name suggests, this beach is partially cut off by rock formations, so it is especially safe and sheltered – perfect for snorkelling, exploring the rocks and for young children. Best at or around full tide.

Sandy Bay
Sandy Bay is a secluded spot on the north side of the island and being ‘off-the-beaten- track’, it is often less populated than main beaches. It is the only north side beach with a boat ramp, as well as public toilets, a picnic table, and a small parking area.

Onetangi Beach
Possibly Waiheke’s most well-known beach, Onetangi is certainly the longest at over 2km, and more likely to have surf than the other northern beaches. It is also the location for the annual Onetangi Beach Races, always a popular Waiheke Island event held in February/March each year.

Man O’ War Bay Road
Just across the road from Man O’ War vineyards, this small beach provides the perfect spot for a pre-lunch or tasting dip.

VINEYEARDS, RESTAURANTS AND CAFÉS

Tantalus Estate
70/72 Onetangi Road, Onetangi

One of Waiheke’s much-loved, family-owned vineyards, Tantalus Estate features a cellar door for tastings, a Brewer’s Lounge for having casual drinks and a restaurant which is open for lunch and dinner. Tantalus has a light-filled setting that makes it popular for events, including views out over the vines and olives, and dining areas inside and out, with décor that is airy and sophisticated, yet not stiff. As a food stylist I can sometimes be underwhelmed by the way dishes are plated, but certainly not here. Every single morsel we tried was utterly stunning on the plate, and equally delicious to eat. Among the many courses was their delightful Tantalus estate-grown signature crumbed olives on olive skewers, and a starter of exquisite, jewel-like, tiny tartlets featuring last season black truffle, Écluse, parmesan, butternut, and pumpkin seeds. A stand out both visually and flavour-wise was the Rooibos-cured Ōra King salmon with Alibi Brewing Company beer-battered kina, persimmon and ginger. The savoury dishes were equally matched by the sweet in terms of both flavour and looks. We tried an amazing Rum Baba, as well as Cannelé worthy of a Bordeaux patisserie. Even the macarons (I’m not usually a fan) were sublime. As we enjoyed each new dish, staff were attentive and polite and the entire experience was a delight.

Tantalus Estate was ecently awarded Best Destination Venue 2023 at Hospitality New Zealand’s Awards for Excellence, and it isn’t hard to see why – executive chef Gideon Landman and his team are delivering world- class food, that magical combination of refined, yet packed with flavour and texture. Simply stunning. tantalus.co.nz

Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant
126 Church Bay Road, Oneroa

Over the years, like so many others, I have celebrated special occasions at the stunning Mudbrick Vineyard & Restaurant, just up the road from Oneroa in Church Bay Road. With mesmerising views out over the Hauraki Gulf and the delightful kitchen garden, it really is one of the most romantic locations imaginable. Robyn and Nicholas Jones bought the land for the vineyard in 1992, a bold and pioneering move for the young couple. They are still the owners and have had the most epic rollercoaster adventure over the last 30 years. They started with a vision of getting away from it all – and have ended up creating a location that everyone wants to ‘get away to’, too!

And there are so many reasons to visit: there is of course the Mudbrick wine, including everything from Malbec to Albariño, the exquisite fine dining restaurant and the more casual and equally fabulous bistro, accommodation including vintage and luxury cottages, The Owner’s Retreat, Settlers Hut and even a chic Ponsonby villa available, should you be arriving in Auckland and need to over-night before heading to the island. Our visit was in the depths of winter, so appropriately we feasted on Venison Loin with coffee fermented plums, beetroot ketchup, chicory and tapioca, but as this issue goes on sale Mudbrick will be offering its new spring menu designed by head chef Mrinal Ghosal.

Mudbrick really is one for the ‘must-do’ list on Waiheke, whether for a wine tasting, a casual bite, a romantic dinner for two or a special birthday or anniversary celebration – or even a wedding. mudbrick.co.nz

Cable Bay
12 Nick Johnstone Drive

A tolerable walking distance from the Matitatia ferry at just over 2km, Cable Bay is an incredibly popular destination for day- trippers and visitors to the island, and I have often-times seen guests run/walking back down to the ferry having miscalculated how long it will take. (Heads up to allow at least 25 minutes to be on the safe side.) One of the most appealing things about Cable Bay is the stunning swathe of grassed area that leads out to the wide views beyond – the perfect spot to lounge about on a bean bag admiring the vista, the outdoor sculptures and of course the award- winning wine. When it comes to dining there are two options – The Verandah is large, casual, and contemporary, with The Bistro more refined and elegant, yet still relaxed.

On the day we visited the winter sun was shining as we settled into a table at The Verandah. We started with a stunning Market Fish Crudo with young coconut persimmon and coriander – a particularly pleasing combination with a glass of Reserve Pinot Gris. To follow, we shared a plate of Aged Duck Breast with Jerusalem artichoke, mushrooms, granola and sherry. The duck was perfectly pink and tender and the Jerusalem artichoke a delicious treat. I must confess, I also had my eye on the 12-hour Roast Cabbage Pavé which sounded intriguing but we couldn’t quite manage another bite.

In addition to the restaurants, Cable Bay also features a cellar door, a villa and guesthouse for accommodation, and is available for hosting events – from weddings to conferences! cablebay.nz

The Oyster Inn
124 Ocean View Road, Oneroa

The Oyster Inn has been a go-to for many years since it was founded by Andrew Glenn and Jonathan Rutherfurd Best in 2012 and having successfully survived the changing of ownership a couple of times since then, is now in the safe hands of renowned Kiwi chef, Josh Emmett. There is something so deliciously ‘holiday seaside’ about the building with its veranda dining area, tall palm trees and joyful yellow and white striped awning – it just immediately feels like a good time. For oyster lovers, there is no better place to sample the local Te Matuku oysters all manner of ways – natural with a lemon and a mignonette dressing, with a chilli sambal and chives, or even battered with wasabi mayonnaise or in a house-made brioche roll with harissa mayo and a courgette pickle. Fear not if you (like

me) are not an oyster-lover. While those that are, busily indulge themselves, there is loads more on the menu to enjoy, including a variety of specials – from Chicken Schnitzel with Potato and Herb Salad and Karaage Chicken, to Truffle Béchamel Brie Toasties, which sound outrageously good. Josh, wife Helen and the team have done a great job of creating an atmosphere and menu that caters to both visitors to the island and locals alike. It is a tricky balance to strike, and they do it beautifully. theoysterinn.co.nz

Island Coffee
21b Belgium Street, Ostend

Island Coffee is where the very discerning Waiheke locals go for a morning brew and it’s a secret, I am happy to share! Island Coffee is a boutique coffee roastery as well as tiny café in Waiheke’s suburb of Ostend, just around the corner from the biggest supermarket on the island, Countdown. Owned by Stephen and Jane Burn (also a talented ceramic artist), coffee must run in the blood, as sons Finn and Tom are also in the business. With laid back vibes thanks to music playing on the record player and the talented eye of Jane, I’d suggest picking up a pastry from the cabinet along with your coffee – delicious treats from the Little Tart Bakery are the perfect accompaniment. islandcoffeenz.com

HR 16 Coffee
16 Hamilton Road, Surfdale

I noticed this edgy pop-up coffee shop as I stormed past on my walk one morning, and was determined to head back to sample their coffee. I’m so glad I did – not only was the coffee excellent, it turns out this clever little enterprise is the brain child of Finn Burn (see above) and partner. I can’t help but applaud young people giving things a crack, and with their great coffee and irresistible Triple Cheese Toasties made with organic sourdough served with a sprinkling of truffle salt, this duo already has a winning formula.

Stonyridge Vineyard
80 Onetangi Road

Among the pioneers of grape cultivation on Waiheke Island, Stonyridge Vineyard stands out as an internationally acclaimed producer of Bordeaux-blend wines. The journey of Stonyridge Vineyard started in 1982, initiated by Stephen White who returned to New Zealand after sailing a Whitbread Round the World Yacht Race, and having skippered yachts in the Mediterranean and Caribbean. During his overseas adventure he also worked at wineries in France, California and Italy. Consequently, when he came back he was on the hunt for ‘Bordeaux land’. At Stonyridge he found it, and the inaugural Bordeaux varietals took root on the land the same year, accompanied by the establishment of New Zealand’s first commercial olive grove on Waiheke Island. The vibe at Stonyridge these days is laid back and enticing, the vines and olive plantings providing ample room for kids or grandchildren to have a run around while the adults settle in, inside the restaurant or out on the large deck overlooking the view. Given wine tastings are also available, prepare to take some time! With two menus to choose from for dining, there is also the option of just kicking back with a Stonyridge Platter laden with cured meats, local cheeses and olives, smoked fish paté, cornichons, bread and house-smoked truffle butter. stonyridge.com

Three Seven Two
21 The Strand, Onetangi

Back when I spent a lot of time on Waiheke (and when landlines were the norm), 372 was always easy to remember as the first three digits of all phone numbers on the island, and was the inspiration for the restaurant’s name. Situated with a prime position overlooking Onetangi Beach, Three Seven Two is spacious with a casual, welcoming vibe. On the evening we arrived to dine, the restaurant was buzzing despite the gloomy winter weather – a sure sign that good food was on the agenda. And indeed it was. Once settled in with a glass of wine, we were quick to order from the exciting menu. There were so many tempting dishes – from Creamed Paua with bacon, frybread and Nori, to a Chickpea crêpe with cashew and kale curry, coconut and green apple sambal with coconut yoghurt and coriander. We decided on fish of the day with butter beans, bouillabaisse sauce and mussels with saffron aioli and fennel-lemon compote. Somehow managing to be light yet satisfying and full of flavour, it was delicious. The star of the show however, on recommendation from the delightful waitstaff, was the Fried Cabbage with black garlic and tahini sauce, Szechuan chilli, spring onions and sesame seeds. Even though we had already had a day of eating, we devoured that cabbage as if it was our last meal – it was that good! threeseventwo.co.nz

Ki Māha
1 Fourth Avenue, Onetangi Beach

Ki Māha holds a commanding position on Waiheke’s Onetangi beachfront. The restaurant is surprisingly large, with a whisper of Miami vibes and on entering, I could imagine it heaving with gorgeous sun-kissed groups on a warm summer’s evening. The menu is described as combining sustainably harvested seafood and ethically farmed meats, with locally sourced seasonal fruit and vegetables. Owned and operated by veteran hospo personality Dominique Parat, his experience and expertise is evident in the stylish interior, attentive staff and elegant menu. The day we dined, the view over the beach beckoned as we settled ourselves in with a glass of their own Ki Māha 2021 chardonnay. This luscious drop was a perfect match to the Coconut marinated ceviche of market fish, with crispy shallots, seaweed cracker, fresh wasabi and chilli – utterly delicious, the hints of chilli and wasabi brought the fresh flavours to life. The market fish was cooked to perfection and served on a golden saffron risotto with pearls of salty salmon roe. In te reo Māori, ‘māha’ translates as, ‘to be gratified, satisfied, contented – by the attainment of a desired object’. We were indeed all of those things as we savoured each bite and sip. Although we were after lighter fare on our visit, the menu had plenty more to offer with Handpicked grass-fed sirloin with café de Paris butter and 12-hour braised Lumina lamb shoulder among the offerings. Whether you’re in the mood for a small, chic bite or a robust feast, Ki Māha has plenty of tempting items to choose from.  kimaha.nz