Selecting superb chardonnays? dish Drinks Editor Yvonne Lorkin says it was a chardonnicious experience.

I cannot tell you how much I look forward to our chardonnay panels. Hold on, actually I can, because I’m the one writing this intro. So “very much” and “massively” are how much I look forward to it because chardonnay is my favourite white wine. It’s the most consumed white wine in the world as well. It’s also the most versatile of all the grapes, it can do and be anything. From creating delicate sparkling styles and lean, mineral-driven, Chablis-like wines through to old-school, peachy, buttered toast bombs and tropically honeyed, dessert wines, chardonnay is a wickedly tasty, workhorse of a grape.

Yet for this issue we were looking to find the greatest still examples of oaked and un-oaked chardonnay and the result was a huge haul – 20 gold medals, 51 silver medals and 69 bronze medals were awarded from a field of 178 entries. While nine of our gold medals were awarded to wines from the mighty 2020 and 2021 vintages, the majority of entries roared in from 2022 and 2023, years that were tough, particularly for chardonnay-centric regions such as Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne.

2022 was tricky because before the growing season had even begun, our wine producers were already dealing with the Covid fallout, creating unprecedented shortages of international seasonal workers, social distancing and higher levels of staff absence due to illness and isolation. This meant less choice in when and how the grapes would be harvested. Then an unusually cold and wet February increased the potential for disease and late ripening, which threatens quality and creates real stress and tension.

But that was nothing compared to the stress and tension of 2023, which got off to a cold, wet, soggy start particularly in the North Island. That murky summer tsunami’d into Cyclone Gabrielle, which devastated many vineyards across Hawke’s Bay and Gisborne Tairāwhiti, some of which were completely lost, buried in sticky silt.

And yet pockets of perfection emerged from those vintages – two 2023 Hawke’s Bay chardonnays (Alchemy and Askerne) made by Cairn Coghill, and the Church Road Grand Reserve 2022 by Chris Scott and his team stood out as stunning. The 2022 and 2023 chardonnays from Waiheke Island, Marlborough and Nelson had our judges smiling and it was incredibly exciting to see chardonnay from Central Otago (Mt Difficulty Ghost Town) and the Waikato (Takapoto Estate Crossing Point) gunning into the gold medal stakes.

Our two teams of judges gathered in the sensory laboratory at EIT’s School of Viticulture and Wine Science – newly reopened following Cyclone Gabrielle closure – to work through the wines blind, and under the watchful eyes of head steward Maxime Cavey and her assistants. Thanks to Hawke’s Bay Winegrowers for the use of their Riedel glassware, which helped give every wine a sporting chance and to my mum, Donna Kamp who baked an enormous fruitcake and three different slices for our judges to snack on.

TOP OF THE TASTING – Vavasour Papa Marlborough Chardonnay 2021 ($35.00) – Gold Medal

A collective “wow” rumbled forth from the judges as they sipped this wine. With its mouthfilling melon, peach purity, beautifully integrated oak, rich, nutty nuances and incredible length of flavour, it’s big, bold, ultra-concentrated and yet showing finely tuned, precise fruit. Thought-provoking and well made, this southern stunner made a massive impression. “What more could you want?” wrote Gordon Russell. vavasour.com

2. Villa Maria Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021 ($40.00) – Gold Medal

Prepare for a powerful, mouthfilling, sensationally showy wine with lifted aromatics, robust yet beautifully balanced oak, and a refreshing core of concentrated citrus characters. Smoky layers weave their way through the grapefruit and nectarine notes, leaving a lengthy, powerful finish. Luxuriously lovely. villamariawines.com

3. Church Road Grand Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2022 ($38.00) – Gold Medal

With its pronounced floral aromas, masses of citrus blossom, acacia, white peach and sweet fruit concentration, this chardonnay immediately impressed the judges. Polished, precise, with a firm acid backbone, complex, hazelnutty, biscuity oak and a harmoniously smoky finish, it’s an absolutely stunning wine. church-road.com

4. Beach House Levels Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021 ($35.00) – Gold Medal

An ultra-textural, seriously rich, fruit-forward chardonnay showing cashew and marzipan layers, and enchanting oak curving around a core of creamy, honeyed complexity. Crafted by Chris Harrison, it has incredible energy and length and it’s a joy to drink. beachhouse.co.nz

5. Goldie Zell Waiheke Island Chardonnay 2020 ($60.00) – Gold Medal

Seductively full-bodied and richly structured, this chardonnay immediately impressed the judges with its power and balance. Made by Heinrich Storm, it’s elegant and showing supremely stylish citrus and stonefruit, nutty nuances and a marathon-like finish. goldieestate.co.nz

6. Alchemy Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023 ($34.00) – Gold Medal

Roaring with smoked stonefruit and gun-barrel notes around a sweet citrus core, this super-tasty, Cairn Coghill-crafted chardonnay has been made with care and attention. Fresh, biscuity oak and lovely hazelnutty complexity combine with ballerina-like balance on the palate to create a delicious experience. alchemywines.co.nz

7. Askerne Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2023 ($36.90) – Gold Medal

Another of Cairn Coghill’s wines in our top-ranked selection shows he’s got the skills to pay the bills. Ripe and generously proportioned, this wine shows seductive peaches roasted in buttery bodaciousness. Classically bold and powerful. askernewines.co.nz

8. Stoneleigh Rapaura Series Marlborough Chardonnay 2023 ($24.00)– Gold Medal

Beautifully biscuity aromas, lemon shortbread, hazelnut and citrus pith notes are followed by energetic acidity and a palate loaded with peaches and cream. Fresh, almond-laced layers and firm acidity create a lengthy finish. stoneleigh.com

9. Brancott Estate Letter Series O Marlborough Chardonnay 2023 ($24.00) – Gold Medal

Scented with grilled grapefruit and greengage plum, here’s a mineral-focused example with excellent balance and structure, nutty notes and a smoky, edgy, full-bodied mouthfeel. Impressive tension and length of flavour. brancottestate.com

10. Mt Difficulty Lowburn Valley Ghost Town Central Otago Chardonnay 2022 ($42.00) – Gold Medal

Scented with toasted peach brioche and citrus blossom, and showing smoked hazelnut, stonefruit and a core of lemon. Our judges felt this was a really interesting, contemporary style of chardonnay with a mineral-driven, clean character. mtdifficulty.nz

11. Neudorf Rosie’s Block Moutere Chardonnay 2023 ($55.00) – Gold Medal

Ultra-fresh and energetic, this wine roars with summer florals, popcorn and roast peach aromas, crisp citrus and mouthwatering minerality. The oak supports the fruit nicely, resulting in a deliciously clean, elegant style. neudorf.co.nz

12. Obsidian Reserve Waiheke Island Chardonnay 2021 ($59.99) – Gold Medal

Stacked with spiced yellow fruits, prepare for a rich, oaky, peach-saturated nose, hints of truffle, dried herbs and crushed almond complexity. It has a generously round, plush mouthfeel and delivers excellent length of flavour. obsidian.co.nz

13. Saint Clair Pioneer Block 10 Twin Hills Marlborough Chardonnay 2021 ($35.00) – Gold Medal

A very elegant, restrained, high-toned style, boasting ripe, yellow fruits, crumble spices and pineapple notes on the nose. In the mouth it’s rich, clean and beautifully focused on the finish. saintclair.co.nz

14. Takapoto Estate Reserve Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2020 ($49.99) – Gold Medal

Classic marzipan characters merge with baking spices and nutty richness, which builds on the palate where the oak kicks in and merges with round, fleshy textures and crisp acidity. Hints of biscotti add to its complexity and concentration and the finish is deliciously long and biscuity. takapoto.co.nz

15. Delta Estate Hatters Hill Marlborough Chardonnay 2022 ($25.00) – Gold Medal

Mineral-driven with nectarine and citrus notes on the nose and palate. This immediately impressed our judges – they loved that it was edged with oyster shell notes yet has solid, mid-palate weight where the oak sits beautifully alongside the fruit. Super tasty. deltawines.co.nz

16. Lawson’s Dry Hills Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2022 ($30.00) – Gold Medal

Intensely nutty and seriously fruit-forward, with apricot, almond and mango layers make for a lifted, luscious chardonnay that soars from the glass. Punchy pineapple and subtle oak make for a satisfying sip.lawsonsdryhills.co.nz

17. Seifried Winemakers Collection Nelson Barrique Fermented Chardonnay 2022 ($25.00) – Gold Medal

Subtle oak and peaches and cream complexity combine with mouthfilling textures, sherbet-like citrus, elegant use of oak adding soft, nutty layers to the mid-palate. The finish is clean and bright, with great energy and length. Stunning stuff. seifried.co.nz

18. Takapoto Estate Crossing Point Waikato Chardonnay 2022 ($32.99) – Gold Medal

Ripe and fulsome with honeysuckle and toasty, biscuity oak, which work their magic alongside masses of tropical fruit and buttery layers to create a big, buxom, old-school style that really satisfies. takapoto.co.nz

19. Watermark Basketweave Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay 2021 ($26.00) – Gold Medal

Golden in the glass and scented with toasted brioche, peach compote and apple crumble complexity, it’s sweet fruited, approachable and crafted meticulously. The finish is long, clean and focused. hopesgrove.com

20. Riverby Estate Old Vines Reserve Marlborough Chardonnay 2020 ($38.00) – Gold Medal

With its enticingly complex, oak-driven, citrus and white chocolate aromatics combined with layers of lemon and grilled grapefruit on the palate, it’s an impressively full-bodied chardonnay. Prepare for a long and satisfying finish, laced with oyster shell salinity. riverbyestate.com

SILVER WINNERS